The Mondayest of soups, no tea no shade. Lemme splain.
The negotiations we make with ourselves when we’re
tired/grouchy/hungry etc. will never cease to amuse me. After a busy day at
work that followed another night of questionable sleep, I walked into my
apartment and stared down my favorite reusable shopping bag. It was waiting by
the door for me to trot it up to the grocery. “I’ve been so empty and lonely
lately,” it complained, trying to guilt me into filling it with fresh
purchases. I’m not responsible for your existential crisis, bag!
Cold, tired, hungry me started in on the mental math: Guilt plus current step deficit on my Fitbit divided by the current rate of decrease
in brain functionality due to hunger pangs multiplied
by the amount of time it would take to get to the grocery and back, uhhhhh,
okay so I was never that great at math. I do know, though, that it took me
about 6 seconds to give up on that calculation and decide that SURELY there had
to be a recipe somewhere in my cookbook collection that I could bend to fit the
contents of my fridge and pantry.
The revelation here, much like the undisputed but
oft-ignored fact that it takes just as long to get take-out as it would to just cook something already, is that I
definitely could have gone to the store and back in the time it took me to flip
through 6 different beautiful tomes looking for inspiration. There’s something
about gorgeous food photography that tends to make me less hungry; they do say
you eat with your eyes, but maybe my imagination is a little too strong. I
meandered through salads and apps, mains and sides, faux-feasting and daydreaming
futures for out-of-season vegetables for a good 45 minutes before happening
upon this recipe.
I also paged through a quite delightful but not terribly
appetizing vintage soup pamphlet that was given to me by my friends Aaron and
Julie. I swear I’m going to make good and try one of these mysterious
concoctions at some point. Tonight was not that night.
#beefjuice |
But you know, had it not been for my intractable desire to
not leave my apartment, I may never have tried this humble little soup, either.
And though I’ve been giving my illogical decision making a bit of a hard time
above, I’m fully standing by my decision. Not only was it a fun game of
ingredient Password (you say cabbage, I say kale; you say onion, I say leek),
but it’s a nice bowl of food that demonstrates the need for teamwork. Had I
given myself this Chopped basket sans
the outside input of Joshua McFadden, I don’t know that I would have come up
with something as good. That’s mostly due to a splishy-splash of one secret
ingredient: vinegar.
I’ve used vinegar to finish a soup before, but not
throughout the simmering process. I assumed something bad would happen if I put
it on the heat: Would the soup pickle? That doesn’t sound “comforting,” as
promised by the recipe’s title. Trying a new thing, even something as small as
two teaspoons of champagne vinegar, can be scary. The weird part is that I
can’t define why it’s scary, as I’ve
never regretted a new-thing experience (searching my memory database right now
to think of an exception, but no – even that South African Elton John cover
band was worthwhile). Trusting this recipe was certainly no exception – the
vinegar, along with the lemon juice, completely sets it apart. I’ll admit the
results look a bit murky and boring, but looks can be deceiving. It tasted
bright and clean, but pleasantly unchallenging as well. Pretty much all you can
ask for from a Monday-soup, IMHO. Maybe the acid from the vinegar helps to
soften up the kale even more, eh? That sounds believably science-ish.
Another fun new technique: Toasting the farro prior to
adding it to the soup. This keeps the final texture a bit more contains and
adds a nuttiness that really cozies up to the Parmigiano quite nicely. And a
bonus: While you’re toasting it, it smells just like roasted nuts. I adore a
good magic trick.
Since at this point in my life I derive most of my
excitement from food (as if the previous statement did not make this clause
redundant), I tend to be a bit of a magpie: distracted by the shiny, the
trendy, the technicolor. This soup may have clipped my magpie wings, but it’s
good to come down to earth now and then. A solid, earthy, hearty but light and
— yes — comforting exercise in
stubbornness and substitution.
Comforting Kale, Leek
and Farro Soup
Serves 2
Adapted from Joshua McFadden’s Six
Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables
extra virgin olive oil
1 leek, white and light green parts thinly sliced
1/2 bunch of lacinato kale, ribs removed and leaves sliced
into ~1/4” ribbons
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
1 sprig rosemary
2 teaspoons champagne vinegar
1/3 cup farro
2 cups vegetable or chicken broth (used my usual Better than
Bouillon No-Chicken base)
juice of half a lemon
shaved Parmigiano Reggiano
Heat a good splash of olive oil (a tablespoon-ish) in a pot
over medium heat and add leeks along with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of
black pepper. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until it starts to soften, about 5 minutes. Add kale, garlic and
rosemary, stir, and cover until it’s all very soft – about 20 minutes. Add
vinegar, taste for seasoning, and cover for a few more minutes while you toast
the farro.
Heat about a teaspoon of olive oil in a small pan over
medium heat. Add the farro and toast, stirring, until golden and crisped but
not burnt. Add the farro to your pot of vegetables along with broth, and bring
to a simmer for 25 minutes or until farro is tender.
Remove from heat, remove and discard rosemary sprig, and
stir in lemon juice. Serve topped with a drizzle of olive oil, Parmigiano
Reggiano and black pepper.
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