Roasted Brussels Sprout Soup with Goat Cheese Wontons

Here's the soup; now I'm gonna talk about eggplant for an hour.

Since I first started this project in 2009, I've had my eye on one particular roasted eggplant soup. It was on the shortlist for the original Soupruary calendar (which, gosh, that was cute), but stayed in my files for the following year. It's stayed on the bench ever since -- probably due to my own prejudice.

I'd love to think I've never met a vegetable I didn't like, but my eggplant aversion is longstanding and deep-seated. I think it started during my first vegetarian stint in college, when it seemed like the only non-meat something that people could think of (even in Los Angeles) was eggplant. So much eggplant. And if it's undercooked once, that fibrous bitterness stays with you each time you think of it.

The other culprit is baba ganoush. That takes my one vegetable hang-up and ramps up the stakes by adding my one food hang-up: anything smoked. I know I'm in the minority here, but there's no accounting for taste or whatever. I don't see why vegetables and cheeses need to taste like pulled pork.

Of course I've had, and even made, plenty of eggplant dishes that I enjoy. Ratatouille, for instance, is much more than just a supremely precious movie. But it's still a surprise every time I like it, so strong are those memories of TOO MUCH EGGPLANT. 

Think of it this way: For a while there it seemed like everyone had a college story of ingesting altogether too much Jägermeister, and now they can never even contemplating having it again. Eggplant is basically my Jägermeister.

But this was going to be the year. I bought everything except the eggplant, because I was unimpressed by the selection at the market the other day. I was almost totally ready. And then Logan showed up with this:

The plan changed. Why go in search of eggplant (unghghgh) when I have a massive billy club of Brussels sprouts at my disposal? 

One of these days, I'm going to go all truth and reconciliation commission between me and eggplant. But Valentine's Day is a day for love, and I love Brussels sprouts. I mean Logan. (For bringing me Brussels sprouts.)

My very first soup love was wonton soup from Ming's in Los Banos, California. I had it every time I went there growing up, which was basically weekly. I had it so much that the amazing waitresses who have been there since I was a child still remembers when we stop in at Christmastime. And yet, somehow, this is the first time I've ever made a soup employing wontons. Of course, these had about zero in common with those Ming's wontons. But they were still super fun to make and super yum to eat.

I made more wontons than we needed for the soups, so we fried a few up for a snack later. Good both ways, I assure you.

Overall this soup was successful. That said, the color was probably just as ugly as if it had been eggplant. If I were to turn back time (obviously the best reason to time travel is to alter any soup decisions), I think I'd just leave it a brothy soup with chunky vegetables rather than blending it. The flavor of the roasted sprouts came through loud and clear, but I would have enjoyed the texture of all those tightly packed little leaves. Sure, that would have competed with the dumpling texture, but I think I'm woman enough to handle a little competition. 

Here's hoping your Valentine's Day was as sweet as a teensy lil roasted cabbage.

Roasted Brussels Sprout Soup with Goat Cheese Wontons
Adapted from Bon Appetit, November 2000 
Serves 4

GET THIS STUFF

For the Soup:

1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, halved and trimmed of tougher outer leaves (reserve some of the best-looking outer leaves)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup diced onion
1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed and diced
1 small russet potato, peeled and diced
1 leek, white and light green parts only, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups vegetable broth
1/4 cup cream

For the Dumplings:

1 teaspoon olive oil
1 large shallot, chopped fine
2 ounces crumbled goat cheese
1/4 cup diced tomatoes, pressed to remove excess liquid
1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
12 wonton wrappers

DO THIS WITH IT  

Preheat oven to 375 F. Toss Brussels sprouts (minus reserved outer leaves) with 1 tablespoon olive oil and place them on a baking sheet. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, until crispy and brown on the edges and tender to the touch.

Melt butter in your soup pot over medium heat and add onion, fennel, potato, leek, garlic and oregano. Cook for about 10 minutes and then add wine and cook for 2 more minutes. Add vegetable broth, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Add roasted Brussels sprouts and simmer another 10 minutes.

Blend soup until smooth (or don't, if you're me and you've travelled back in time to remake this). Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To make the dumplings (which you can make ahead of time if desired), sauté shallots in oil in a small skillet for 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool a bit. Mix in goat cheese, tomato and basil, and a pinch of salt and pepper. 

Spread your wrappers out on a cutting board and spoon a scant 2 teaspoons of filling into each. Dip your finger in some water and rub it along edges, then fold the dumplings over diagonally to make triangles. 

Now grab those reserved sprout leaves. Put just a tiny splash of olive oil in a small skillet and turn the heat up to medium-high. Throw the leaves in and get them bright green with crispy dark brown spots. They'll pop and crackle -- it's fun. Sprinkle with just a pinch of salt and remove to a paper towel until serving. 

Just before serving soup, bring a pot of water to boil and cook dumplings for 1 minute (in batches), removing them with a slotted spoon when they're ready. 

Serve each bowl of soup topped with fried leaves and a few dumplings.